Chris.Derecola

Writing reviews for places you went to six months ago is an interesting exercise in recall. Once upon a time, I would devote a post to each and every establishment we visited in Chicago. Those days are not long gone, but since I’ve written this post over the span of several months it’s gonna be a bit fragmented. I’ll try and touch on the things that stick out in my mind and what my overall impression of the places were. I have a feeling I’ll get into it and make this post way longer than it should be, but I don’t want to break any hearts if I don’t. Anyway…

Hot Doug’s -This is one of the places I was really looking forward to visiting. Unfortunately, they closed for a three week vacation the day we arrived so I didn’t get to sample the seemingly wonderful duck fat fries. Sad.

Tierra Caliente – Tacos Al Pastor is like the Mexican version of gyros. I’ve never been a HUGE Mexican food fan, but that’s because there is so much bad Tex Mex in this world. Who knew real tacos could be so delicious with so little toppings?

Guanajuato – Carne Asada done right. I’m a big spicy food fan and this was pretty spicy even for me. The star of the meal, however, was the horchata. The giant white container of creamy white liquid is a bit intimidating, but the drink was delicious. It sounds gross, but it’s like drinking ice cold, watered down rice pudding. I loved it.

Map Room -We met Mike late on a Sunday night, after we had a fairly ridiculous dinner at L2O. The bouncer asked us where we came from, since were so dressed up, but that’s all that was made of our unusual visit. The place was pretty empty, but it reminded me of a great corner bar to meet up with friends and drink the night away. Their beer selection was fairly awesome and despite clearly not belonging, we somehow fit in. I’m glad I don’t have a place like this in walking distance.

Hopleaf Bar – Their beer menu is absolutely ridiculous, especially if you’re into trying every Belgian beer in existence. For what was essentially a neighborhood bar that has tables and a two page menu, the food was impressive. It’s really hard to go wrong with a sausage platter, which was the best dish of the night. The mains weren’t nearly as memorable, but that might be due to the numerous high ABV beers I’d had. All the patrons seemed local and considering it was after dark on a Monday night, I’m surprised at how packed the place was. I have no idea if Hopleaf is a typical Chicago neighborhood eatery, but I think it speaks well for the city.

The Publican – I love pork and therefore I love The Publican. This was another dinner with Mike, who I believe described the restaurant as one of his all-time favorites. Their menu reads like a foodie’s wet dream, which makes it tough to narrow down your selections. The three most memorable things about the night were the crispy pig ears, the head cheese and Mike not realizing the hot waitress was hitting on him. We didn’t drink nearly as much beer as I thought we were going to, but I blame all the pig we ate. The choices were certainly there were we willing. The community tables is an interesting idea, but I’m not sure it’s for me. Thankfully we had one of the penned in booths; an improvement that still had me feeling a bit claustrophobic. I could see how people wouldn’t like the atmosphere, with the hustle and bustle, but the food makes it all worthwhile.

L2O – I’m not really sure one can write a review of the Tatami Room dining adventure because it’s one of those things you have to do for yourself. Nineteen courses of some of the most elegantly prepared and delicious food I have ever experienced is not something easily described in text. Countless plates of cooked and raw fish, wagyu beef,  smoked salmon, scallops, lobster, jalapeno sorbet… all great… and the list goes on. The private bamboo lined room was romantic and our kimono-clad waitress was extremely pleasant and knowledgeable. I can’t say the cost of the meal was something I’m proud of, but life is about experiences and our dinner there was definitely one you talk about for a long time. I don’t think I would have ever recommended a five hour dinner to anyone, but I’m recommending this one.

[Included below is a scan of our menu. You can also find pictures of all dishes but one in the Derecola Archives.]

Part of the reason we went to Chicago was for the food scene. I’m happy to say it did not disappoint, although I think knowing a local gastrophile helped us out tremendously. The fare is really a lot more down-home than I expected, although considering the roots of the city, isn’t surprising. Somehow, the city manages to make eating both comfortable and experimental at the same time… if that’s possible. It really is one of the better food cities I’ve visited and I’d recommend it to everyone.

Not the one in Herndon, but rather the one in the Dupont area of NW DC. I’ve been interested in going for some time and finally managed to make it there. Below is the review I wrote on Yelp, which I’ve taken a liking to in recent months. I’d definitely recommend the restaurant to anyone.

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Russia House is one of those places where you can’t help but feel like you’re in a spy movie. The bar just inside the front door is very tiny, jam packed with people and the list of martinis available is nearly endless. That feeling is reinforced as you walk through the restaurant, with its crimson wallpaper and dark wood, winding down wooden staircases with a martini in your hand. Considering the lack of signage on the building and the heavy wooden double-doors (guarded outside by Russian bouncers and inside by a Russian hostess) that greet you, it being a private social club isn’t much of a stretch.

The service was exemplary. The waitstaff was attentive, without being pushy, and despite ordering our four courses over the span of several hours, they never pressed us to make the next selection or asked for the menus back. They were quick to ask if we had any questions and even offered to serve two separate smaller plates when we decided to share the entree (large plate) so we wouldn’t be two guys eating off the same dish.

~~ Food Disclaimer: I spent a few days in St. Petersburg a couple years ago and have a Russian-born friend who is an accomplished cook, so I’m kinda biased about Russian fare. ~~

The Moscow Borsch was very good. It was reminiscent of what I had in Russia, with its taste of fresh beets, but it wasn’t as good as homemade (is anything ever?). I certainly can’t hold that against it and I’d definitely order it again.

The Wild Game Sausage Sampler  was excellent. Each sausage had its own distinct flavor and each was some of the better sausage I’ve had. They really made pork sausage seem… boring.

Salmon Two Ways was an obvious choice and of it, the Cured Vodka Dill Salmon was the better of the two.

The Beef Stroganoff was disappointing. I really wanted to like it, but the tough, chewy beef made it something I wouldn’t order again. It had good flavor, but I had far better.

I think the prices are a little high but the food is good and there’s a great ambiance that you’re undoubtedly paying for. Despite the Stroganoff, I’m looking forward to going back. They have quite a few Russian beers, their vodka list is ridiculously long and much of their menu seems worth sampling. I also wouldn’t mind tasting all the caviar… on someone else’s dime.

Went to Inox a few months back but am just now getting around to writing the review. It’s interesting what you choose to write about a restaurant when the tastes are long gone; I suppose you end up with more of a macro view of what the place has to offer. I think I have a habit of getting bogged down in the details and restaurants should really be about how well they work and not whether your toast points were grilled perfectly. Moving on…

The chef at Inox is the same guy that was at 2941 when we went there a few years ago. I was told not to expect much, because the food was on par with what 2941 used to be. My source apparently thinks the new chef at 2941 is much better than the old, but since I enjoyed myself when I was there I wasn’t that concerned. I would, in fact, rate the food on par and given my prior review, that’s a good thing. The decor was of similar quality, although the fine dining nature was less airy contemporary and more warm lounge. The service was what you would expect of a restaurant of this quality.

The menu leaned towards seafood and higher end ingredients but there is probably going to be something for everyone who isn’t a vegetarian. The prices weren’t as ridiculous as I would have expected given the location and the portions, while appearing small, ended up perfect for a three course meal. The courses presented well, had balanced flavors and were generally pleasing. Not every dish was a home run but none were a disappointment. My courses were very rich, although that’s what I expected from ordering foie gras and duck. The seafood dishes appeared lighter, but I didn’t try any to be able to say with certainty. If you’re looking for a recommendation, I highly suggest the Duck Breast with Duck Confit-Pistachio-English Pea Agnolotti [ravioli], Heirloom Beets and Foie Gras Emulsion. It’s probably the best duck dish I’ve ever had.

All in all, it was a pleasant experience. I’d have a hard time not recommending it to someone looking for a good meal. I wouldn’t suggest large groups or going in without your shirt tucked in, but it’s a good place to sit down and enjoy your dinner.